The anti-ageing cream market is the segment with the highest profit margin and the least regulation of claims in the cosmetics industry. “Reduces wrinkles in 4 weeks”, “visibly lifts and firms”, “revitalises in 7 days” — none of these claims are regulated in the same way as a pharmaceutical claim. The result is that you might pay €200 for a cream containing just 0.1 per cent of the anti-ageing active ingredient advertised on the label, along with 50 filler ingredients.

What an Anti-Ageing Day Cream Really Needs

Active Ingredients (What Do the Job)

• Peptides — stimulate the synthesis of type I and III collagen, communicate with fibroblasts, reduce wrinkle depth. They need to be amongst the first 10 ingredients on the INCI list
• HA at multiple molecular weights — immediate and deep hydration, reduces dehydration lines
• Niacinamide — strengthens the skin barrier, has anti-inflammatory properties, and stimulates the production of endogenous ceramides

Functional Base (What Seals and Protects)

• Ceramides or fatty acids that restore the skin barrier
• Antioxidants (vitamin E, polyphenol extracts) that neutralise free radicals
• Texture suited to skin type — rich cream for dry skin, light emulsion for oily skin

The Issue of SPF in Day Cream

Many day creams contain SPF. The catch is that to achieve the SPF stated on the label, you would need to apply 2 mg/cm² of product — the equivalent of a teaspoonful just on the face. Nobody applies that much cream. In practice, creams with built-in SPF offer actual protection of around SPF 10–15. For adequate protection, SPF should be a separate product, applied in the correct quantity.

Morning vs. Evening: Two Different Functions

Day cream has a protective function (acting as a barrier against the environment and a base for SPF) and a moisturising function. Night cream has a restorative function — whilst you sleep, the skin experiences peaks in mitotic activity (cell production) and greater permeability to active ingredients. A richer night cream, containing ceramides to replenish lipids lost during the day, optimises this repair window.

Anti-Ageing Protocol by Age Group

• 20–30 years : SPF + antioxidants (vitamin C) + prebiotics. Prevention, not correction.
• 30–40 years : add peptides + bakuchiol. Start stimulating collagen before visible loss becomes apparent.
• 40+ years : collagen serum + ceramide cream + bakuchiol. Multiple simultaneous approaches.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does topical collagen work?

Topically applied collagen does not penetrate the skin — the molecule is too large. What does work are the active ingredients that stimulate endogenous production: peptides, vitamin C, bakuchiol, and retinol/tretinoin. Creams with ‘collagen’ as the main ingredient have a moisturising function (hydrolysed collagen as a humectant) but do not stimulate synthesis.