Sensitive skin reacts to things that are harmless to others. A new cream that stings for the first few seconds. Redness after a shower. That tight, pulling sensation that sets in an hour after you’ve moisturised. Itching for no apparent reason at the end of the day.

The most frustrating thing is the unpredictability: the same product you tolerated well for months suddenly starts to cause discomfort for no apparent reason. This happens because sensitivity is rarely a fixed trait — it’s almost always a state of the skin barrier, and states change.

The Science: What’s Really Happening

The outermost layer of the skin functions like a brick wall: the corneocytes are the bricks, and the lipids — ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids — are the mortar that holds them together.

When this mortar breaks down, microscopic gaps open up between the cells. Two things happen simultaneously: water escapes more quickly (this is the sensation of tightness), and substances that would normally remain on the surface penetrate down to the nerve endings. Hence the stinging sensation with products that did not sting before.

From this point on, a cycle sets in: compromised barrier → greater penetration of irritants → inflammation → further breakdown of lipids → an even more fragile barrier. This is why sensitivity tends to worsen over time if left unchecked — and why the solution lies in rebuilding, not in adding more products.

The microbiome plays an underestimated role here. Beneficial bacteria produce natural lactic acid, which maintains the protective acidic pH. When this ecosystem is disrupted — by harsh cleansers, for example — the pH rises, and the environment begins to favour pro-inflammatory species.

Ingredients: What Makes It Worse

• Denatured alcohol (Alcohol Denat. ) listed amongst the first ingredients — it is antimicrobial and selectively destroys the skin’s flora
• SLS and SLES — indiscriminately strip away lipids. There is a measurable disruption of the skin barrier after 14 days of use
• Fragrance , whether synthetic or natural — the most common cause of contact dermatitis in cosmetics
• Essential oils — lavender, bergamot, citrus. ‘Natural’ does not mean well-tolerated: linalool and eugenol are among the allergens that must be declared by law
• Physical exfoliation with irregular granules — micro-lesions on a barrier that is already compromised
• Hot water — dilates capillaries and accelerates water loss during washing

Ingredients: What Works

• Ceramides — literally rebuild the missing ‘mortar’. They are the only group that treats the cause rather than the symptom
• Prebiotics (inulin, FOS) — nourish beneficial flora and help restore the protective pH
• Niacinamide — stimulates ceramide synthesis and reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-8. Recommended at 5% for rosacea
• Hyaluronic acid — hydrates without causing irritation; it does not repair the barrier, but provides relief whilst it recovers
• Aloe vera and Centella asiatica — soothing agents with documented anti-inflammatory effects
• Panthenol — a humectant with a reparative effect on the barrier

The Routine, and What NOT to Use from Our Range

Morning: gentle cleansing or just warm water → prebiotic serum → fragrance-free cream → mineral SPF

Evening: cleansing milk or foam → prebiotic serum → night cream with ceramides

For occasional relief during flare-ups, applying a soothing facial oil over the cream seals in moisture and soothes the skin.

What to avoid from our own range

We’d rather tell you this than sell you the wrong product:

• Niacinamide Gel — niacinamide would be great for you, but this formula contains alcohol and fragrance. On reactive skin, it’s not worth it
• Glycolic Exfoliating Toner — small molecules, penetrates quickly. Too much for a compromised skin barrier
• Volcanic Sand Exfoliator — fine for the body, but not for sensitive skin on the face
• Clarifying Gel — astringent, designed for tolerant oily skin

How to Introduce Products Without Causing a Reaction

1. Tolerance test: apply to the inner side of your forearm twice a day for 48 hours before using on your face
2. One product at a time , with four weeks between introducing new ones. If you use three at the same time, you won’t know which one is causing a reaction
3. Order: from the lightest texture to the thickest — serum, cream, oil, SPF
4. If you experience persistent stinging beyond the first few seconds, wash it off and remove the product from your routine
5. Rebalancing takes 4 to 8 weeks. During this period, less is more — adding products is the wrong instinct

When to See a Professional

Not all sensitivity can be resolved with cosmetics. Book an appointment with a dermatologist if you have:

• Persistent redness with visible blood vessels — this could be rosacea, which requires specific medical treatment
• Flaking accompanied by intense, recurring itching — this could be seborrhoeic dermatitis or eczema
• Reactions to practically everything, including fragrance-free products
• Sensitivity that has suddenly appeared on skin that has never been reactive before
• No improvement after 8 weeks on a minimal, appropriate skincare routine

A well-chosen skincare routine helps in all these cases, but is no substitute for a diagnosis.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can sensitive skin use acids?

Yes, with care and only once the skin barrier has recovered. Start with lactic acid — it is the AHA with the largest molecule and is best tolerated — once a week, in the evening. If you experience a stinging sensation or redness the following day, stop and try again a few weeks later.

Is sensitivity permanent?

In most cases, no. It is a condition affecting the skin barrier, and the barrier regenerates itself. With a minimal, irritant-free routine, many people regain tolerance after two to three months. Structural sensitivity, associated with rosacea or eczema, is what requires ongoing monitoring.

Are ‘hypoallergenic’ products safer?

Not necessarily. The term has no legal definition or standard criteria — any brand can use it. What matters is the INCI list: the absence of fragrance, denatured alcohol and essential oils.

Should I wash my face in the morning?

For sensitive skin, warm water is often sufficient. Overnight, the skin has not accumulated any pollution or sun cream that would justify the use of surfactants. In the evening, cleansing is always necessary.

Can I use sun cream if everything irritates my skin?

You should — and mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) are the best tolerated, because they act on the surface by reflection rather than being absorbed. UV radiation breaks down the skin barrier, so skipping SPF makes sensitivity worse.

What is the difference between sensitive skin and sensitised skin?

Sensitive skin is a predisposition, often genetic and stable throughout life. Sensitised skin is an acquired condition — skin that has become reactive due to excessive exfoliation, too many active ingredients or harsh cleansers. The latter is reversible, and is much more common than people think.