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The anti-ageing night cream market is dominated by a communication error that brands have little incentive to correct: collagen in the INCI is not collagen that stimulates. It's collagen that hydrates superficially — like gelatine. The collagen in the cream doesn't reach fibroblasts. Peptides do.
The Topical Collagen Mistake
Collagen is a triple-helix protein with molecular weight between 300,000 and 400,000 Da. The skin barrier limits penetration to molecules below 500 Da. Mathematically, topical collagen cannot cross the barrier. What it does: forms a surface film that temporarily hydrates and improves texture. Valid cosmetic effect, but not collagen synthesis stimulation.
What Does Stimulate Synthesis
Signalling peptides (Matrixyl, GHK-Cu) are low molecular weight fragments of degraded collagen — they do penetrate. They act as 'there's damage, produce more collagen' signals to fibroblasts. Vitamin C is the enzymatic cofactor that stabilises the synthesised collagen.
The Anti-Ageing Night Cream with Collagen uses hydrolysed collagen + stimulating peptides. Surface hydration + synthesis signalling. Collagen does what it can do; peptides do what collagen cannot.
Anti-Ageing Night Cream →The Complete Anti-Ageing Night Routine
- Double cleanse (if you used SPF/makeup)
- Prebiotic serum — microbiome first
- Collagen booster serum — peptides + vitamin C
- Bakuchiol serum (alternating nights) — cell renewal
- Anti-ageing night cream — occlusive hydration + hydrolysed collagen as humectant
The Collagen Booster Serum is the active with the most evidence for endogenous synthesis. The night cream is the sealer and humectant that amplifies and protects what the serum did.
Collagen Booster Serum →