Collagen is the most abundant structural protein in skin. From age 25 onwards, production decreases by 1% per year. The market for creams and serums with collagen is enormous. And most of it is based on a fundamental misunderstanding: topical collagen doesn't penetrate skin.

Why Topical Collagen Doesn't Work As Advertised

Collagen is a high molecular weight protein — the molecule is too large to cross the skin barrier. What a product with collagen as ingredient achieves:

• Temporary humectancy (hydrolysed collagen as humectant) — short-lived plumping effect
• No stimulation of endogenous collagen
• No documented dermal penetration under normal conditions of use

What Actually Stimulates Endogenous Collagen Synthesis

• Signalling peptides (Matrixyl, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4) — signal fibroblasts to produce collagen I and III. Robust clinical evidence in 4–8 weeks.
• Vitamin C — essential cofactor of prolyl hydroxylase, the enzyme that stabilises collagen. Without vitamin C, synthesised collagen is structurally weak.
• Bakuchiol — activates collagen pathways without binding to RAR receptors.
• Retinol/Bakuchiol — activate cell turnover and collagen synthesis simultaneously.

The Correct Night Cream: What It Needs to Contain

An effective anti-ageing night cream doesn't need collagen — it needs actives that stimulate its production. Components of a night formula that works:

1. Peptides in an early INCI position
2. Multi-molecular-weight HA
3. Ceramides that replenish the barrier
4. Antioxidants that protect against overnight oxidative damage