There's a paradox in the sensitive skin product market: many of them contain fragrances, essential oils and irritating preservatives — the very ingredients that most frequently cause sensitivity. The 'for sensitive skin' positioning has no legal definition and guarantees nothing. The only way to choose correctly is to read the INCI list with criteria.

The Ingredients That Most Frequently Cause Irritation

• Synthetic fragrances (perfume/parfum in INCI) — number one cause of cosmetic contact dermatitis
• Essential oils (lavandula angustifolia oil, eucalyptus oil, menthol) — potent sensitisers even at low concentrations
• Denatured alcohol (alcohol denat.) in early positions — dehydrates and destroys barrier
• Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea) — common allergens
• MIT/CMIT (methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone) — banned in leave-on products in Europe since 2016; worth checking

What the Formula Needs (Positive)

• Ceramides — replenish the compromised barrier that characterises sensitive skin
• Niacinamide at 2–4% — anti-inflammatory, reinforces barrier, doesn't irritate
• Prebiotics — rebalance the imbalanced microbiome in reactive skin
• High molecular weight HA — surface humectancy with no irritation risk
• Panthenol (provitamin B5) — calming, healing, universally well tolerated

The Patch Test

Before applying any new moisturiser to the full face: apply a small amount to the inner arm for 24–48 hours. If no reaction, introduce to the routine in the periauricular area (behind the ear) before applying to the whole face. For very reactive skin, this sequence reduces the risk of a generalised flare.